November is National Pet Diabetes Awareness Month

This article about diabetes in dogs was taken from The Edmund Sun. It is of great interest to all pet owners and makes us all aware of the symptoms of Diabetes in pets.

DR. M. MARGARET KING
The Edmond Sun

EDMOND — Today 50 percent of our pets are overweight or obese, which certainly can predispose them to developing diabetes. Both dogs and cats develop the same two types of diabetes seen in humans. The greater majority of dogs develop Insulin Dependent Diabetes Mellitus where the body simply does not produce any insulin.

Most cats, on the other hand, develop Non-Insulin Dependent Diabetes Mellitus. In cats the disease is due either to not producing enough insulin or an inability to utilize the insulin that is produced in the body — the same as Type 2 diabetes in humans. We know the obese cat is certainly more prone to developing diabetes. This type of diabetes also may develop secondary to another disease such as pancreatitis.

With either form of diabetes, and in both cats and dogs, insulin is the primary means of control. Oral hypoglycemic medications may work in a few cats but only in 25 percent to 30 percent of cases. Giving a once or twice daily pill to a cat is way down the list of fun things to do for most cat owners.

It is essential to achieve good control of blood glucose levels as soon as possible and to maintain them by checking on a regular basis. Injectable insulin, professional care and in-home monitoring can help ensure a good maintenance of blood glucose levels. Your veterinarian will want to initially regulate your pet, but easily can teach you how to better maintain your pet’s glucose level at home on a daily basis. This is a disease that will require close contact and an open channel of communication between you and your veterinarian.

Treating and caring for a diabetic pet takes a huge commitment in both time and dollars. Regular administration of insulin is a must, so sacrifices may need to be made to get the pet an injection at 7 a.m. and 7 p.m. everyday, or 8 a.m. and 8 p.m., or just once in the morning but on a regular basis. This is another reason that in-home monitoring can be so helpful in that exact insulin needs can be met. There is a new in-home kit made by abbott that is specific for cats and dogs, has a lancet that can be used on the ear vein and does not have to be converted over from the human glucose meters.

Initial symptoms of diabetes are excessive thirst and urination, possible sudden weight loss and frequent urinary tract infections. Lack of energy and listlessness also are on the list. If you are having your pets checked by their veterinarian every six months as is recommended, the odds are you will find out about the disease early and be able to provide for a longer, more comfortable life with great diabetic control. Remember, pets age about seven years for each calendar year, so a once a year examination is like us waiting seven years for a check-up. A lot can happen during this time. As with all diseases or bodily changes, the earlier we detect a problem, the better chance we have of fixing it.

The ounce of prevention applies here also in that you must find ways to keep your pets’ weights down in a normal range. A change in diet to lower calories, fewer treats, a feather on a stick for playing, a laser light to chase or a good walk around the block for your special canine buddies will help a lot. Simple changes in lifestyle can make a huge difference with time and by making it a habit, it is good for you and for your pet. If you need help with any of these preventive measures just ask your veterinarian.

DR. M. MARGARET KING, a longtime Edmond veterinarian, is a guest columnist. If you have any questions for her, send them to 1900 S. Bryant, Edmond, OK 73013.

Qualities of a True Working Dog

In today's world of small, newly bred dog breeds like the Cock- a- poo (Cocker Spaniel and Poodle), Puggle (Pug and Beagle), and Peekasso (Pekingnese and Lhasa Apso), Labradoodle (Labrador and Poodle), there aren't too many true working dogs. The cities are full of popular, small to medium breeds dressed in hats and sweaters, or rolled around in strollers.

True working dogs are hard to come by, but when you see one, you will know it. They are focused on the work ahead, not distracted by the world around them. Three of the breeds, easily trained in K9 police work, Seeing Eye dogs, herding, and narcotics are the German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, and Border Collies. The photo on the right shows a military dog in Afghanistan preparing to be lifted by helicopter.

All of these working dog breeds are highly intelligent, loyal, have social temperaments, and are easily trained. Their lives are focused upon getting the job done. These dogs are in their glory working, rather than in the show ring.

The German Shepherd and Labrador Retriever are usually chosen to work in drug or explosive searching, police work, military, disasters, and search and rescue, not to mention they are terrific family dogs. The Border Collie's specialty is herding. They are extremely intelligent, and can figure out a course of action on their own, not needing human guidance for herding.

They have strong work ethics, and can work all day without tiring. They thrive on work.
Many of the miniature breeds are fidgety and nervous. You won't find this in the working breeds. They are intense, enthusiastic and dignified, never unpredictable. German Shepherds sometimes get a bad rep. People think the shepherd is aggressive and may possibly turn on its master. This is far from the truth. The German Shepherd dog is an excellent family dog. They are protective, but extremely loyal and friendly to family members. If trained socially as a puppy, this breed makes an excellent family pet.

These large working breeds should never be trained with physically harsh methods. The training can make or break a dog. The intelligent working dogs are trying to please and enjoy learning. There is no need for negative reinforcement, or abusive methods of using prong collars or choke chains. This type of training will only lead to an aggressive or submissive dog. The working dog looks forward to training exercises, enjoying the challenge and learning at the same time.

Jon Katz, author of "A Dog Year: Twelve Months Four Dogs and Me", said in a recent interview, "It’s been quite a revelation to see the power of the working dog, especially when the owner (me) goes to some lengths to give the dog an opportunity to work. You really see why dogs and people got together thousands of years ago, and why they have such a powerful relationship. Now, it makes me a bit sad to see all these proud gorgeous working dogs who never get to work."
German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, and Border Collies are happiest when working. These breeds should not be left to sit in a pen, inside an apartment or chained to a tree. They need stimulating work, exercise, and the satisfaction of helping the pack: humans.

Pet Emergency Supply Kit

Everyone knows that all families should prepare a plan in case of emergencies. Many times, people forget to include their pets in the emergency plan. Hurricane Katrina was proof of what disastrous things can happen to people when a real emergency occurs. Katrina also made the public aware of the plight of thousands of abandoned pets left behind who starved, contracted diseases, and died. A family pet should be considered during an emergency also.

I realize that not all pets can be saved during a fire, hurricane, terrorist attack, or flood and that the members of the family come first, but an emergency plan for pets would certainly give pets a chance.

The Department of Homeland Security released a pamphlet that describes the steps that should be taken when preparing a pet for emergencies. The first step is to prepare a Pet Emergency Supply Kit.

• Make an Emergency Pet Supply Kit – If possible, prepare two kits. One of the kits should contain enough food and water to stay at home until help arrives. The other pet supply kit should contain about three days worth of food and water. These should be packed into airtight containers that can be easily carried with you in case you have to leave home.


• Medicine – If your pet takes any kinds of medication, pack this into an airtight, waterproof container also.


• First Aid Kit – A first aid kit for pets includes just about the same supplies you would pack for your family. These items include: rolls of bandage, bandage tape, scissors, antibiotic cream, flea and tick prevention, gloves, and alcohol swabs.


• Leash and Collar – Make sure you pack and extra collar with ID tags fastened to it and a leash. Make copies of all your pet’s vaccinations and license number in a waterproof container. If your pet has a microchip, include the microchip number in the bag. If you haven’t done so already, it is a good idea to have your pet micro chipped. It is inexpensive and can be done right at your vet’s office.


• Crate and Carrier – Have an extra pet carrier ready in case you have to move fast. Have a crate ready for larger animals and take them with you if you can.


• Pet Litter and Trash Bags – Prepare a portable litter box and bag of litter. For larger pets, pack trash bags for disposing of waste. Include a small bottle of bleach for sanitation purposes.


• Photo of Pet – Put a picture of your pet in the supply kit. If you should get separated, it is easier to show a photo of your pet than try to describe it.


• Favorite Item – Choose your pet’s favorite small item and include it in the emergency kit. Having something familiar relieves your pet’s stress and excitement.
  
  

Ugliest Dog Crowned in California

Pabst beat the Chinese Cresteds this year to win the World's Ugliest Dog award at the Sonoma-Marin Fair in California. He is a four year old mixed Boxer. Read all about Pabst!

Preventing and Removing Ticks

Most people have a natural aversion to ticks. If one of the disgusting, blood sucking creatures (they belong to the spider family – arachnids rather than insects) lands anywhere on the body, you’ll see uncontrollable jumping, slapping oneself, brushing the clothing wildly, and cringing, possibly even screaming. “Ugh! A tick…get it off…get it off!”
(Pictured at right: Dog Tick, Deer Tick)

Ticks are not only gross, but they are dangerous to both humans and pets. They carry a number of diseases like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. Ticks are perfect breeding grounds for disease that can be transmitted with one tick imbedded into the skin.

Ticks don’t fly but they wait for a blood transfusion at the top of grass, bushes, shrubs, and plants. They crawl into trees and climb out on limbs waiting for an innocent child, dog, or other warm blooded animal to pass by. There are two things that attract ticks, one is body heat and the other is the carbon dioxide we exhale. It’s impossible to disguise these things as you’re walking or running through a grassy area.

Once the tick senses a warm body approaching, it moves its front legs into the air, getting ready. As you or your pet walk by, the tick grabs on and climbs onto the fur or skin. What is so disgusting is that the tick will crawl around for hours without you even knowing, looking for the perfect spot to dig in and start blood-sucking!

You probably don’t really want the gruesome details but here goes…once the tick finds a nice spot, it digs into the skin with its mouth. It has barbs that prevent the tick from falling off which is why it’s so hard to pull them off and usually the skin is pulled off with the tick. The tick not only has barbs but it makes its own glue that sets it into the skin. Gross…you bet!

Now that the tick is all settled in, it feeds on the blood of the unsuspecting pet or human for several days until it is a ‘bloated blob of blood’. Once the tick is totally bloated, it drops off the victim. You may have found a bloated tick on your kitchen floor after it is accidentally stepped on. It looks like a mashed up blueberry.

The reason ticks engorge themselves on blood is so than can make those wonderful tick babies. The tick lays tens of thousands of eggs before it dies. The eggs develop into larva, the nymph, and then the adult tick. Some ticks are miniscule and can only be seen with a magnifying glass while others are the size of a flat baby pea.

Most ticks found in the US are one of these types:

• American Dog Tick (pictured above)




• Lone Star Tick




• Deer Tick (pictured above)




• Brown Dog Tick




• Preventing Against Ticks

Make sure your lawn is mowed and pull any weeds growing in the area.
When walking your dog, keep to the middle of a path or trail. Try to avoid brushing against shrubs and bushes, especially when you’re in the woods.

When you get home from your walk, check your pet and your children for ticks. Start at the nose of the dog and continue all the way to the end of the tail. Make sure you check the ears. Ticks love ears, necks, and throats. Under your dog’s belly is another favorite tick spot.

If you find a tick, remove it right away. Don’t touch the tick. If it is not imbedded yet, use masking tape to get it off the body. Just fold the tape over the tick and throw it away. Don’t try to squash the tick; it could be carrying dangerous infections that are contagious.

An embedded tick is a little trickier to remove. Use tweezers to get a hold of the tick. Grab it as close to the skin as you can and pull it straight out. Avoid twisting it because it could break open and leave the mouth under the skin. If you don’t have tweezers, use paper or cloth to keep your fingers from touching the tick. The best way to get rid of a tick after you pull it out is to flush it down the toilet or put it in rubbing alcohol.

After removing the tick, wash the area with soap and water. Be sure to wash your hands, as well. In the past, people used to try and burn the tick or suffocate them with nail polish. These methods should NOT be used. They do not work effectively and they could harm the skin of your pet or child.
The best way to prevent ticks is to use a flea and tick product sold at most pet stores and veterinarian offices. I recommend Frontline. I use it for my two dogs every year and I haven’t seen a flea in years. Frontline also kills ticks if they do land on your pet. They will drop off and you’ll never have to touch them.

As far as people go, there isn’t a flea or tick product that lasts for a month, but a strong insect repellant with DEET will repel ticks and flying insects. Also, wear long pants when walking in the woods and keep the pant legs tucked into your socks. Most importantly, wear a hat to keep ticks out of the hair where they are hard to see. Wearing light colored clothing is also a good idea, so you can see the tick if it lands on you.

Hopefully, these suggestions will help keep your family and pets safe from the dangers of the blood-sucking ticks.

Resource: Illinois Dept. of Public Health, Prevention and Control of Ticks

Cattle Dog Stranded on an Island for Months

I just read about an Australian Cattle dog who fell overboard in rough seas off the Queensland coast. The pet dog managed to swim 5 miles to an island and survived for four months. He was recently reunited with his family. This is a real life "Lost" story. Read more about the Stranded Dog.

Control Unleashed Program - Marker Challenge for Dogs

Kristine Hammar, dog trainer and Control Unleashed instructor created the "marker test" for the students in her CU classes as they are getting started , to make sure they are ready for the CU games. She is kind enough to share her marker challenge with anyone attempting to train a reactive dog with Control Unleashed. Kristine emphasizes that if you plan to work on the Control Unleashed program by Leslie McDevitt with your dog, she highly, highly, highly, highly recommends that you do this one. It will literally only take a minute or two.

The Marker Challenge: The objective of this challenge is to test your dog's understanding of the marker that you have chosen to clearly, quickly, and definitively mark behavior. Typically this is a clicker. I recommend that a clicker be used in CU work, but a marker word can work, too. If you use a marker word, you will want to test the marker word, just like a click.

1. Have your clicker and some good treats at the ready. You will want the treats in your hand for this so you can deliver a quick reward.
2. Put your dog on leash, even if you are doing this in your own home.
3. OK, here is the hardest part of this challenge. You need to get your dog to get mildly distracted by something. You could walk toward the door as if you are going to leave the house (most dogs will walk ahead if you do this), or you could have another member of your household say the dog's name. You will want to keep your dog under threshold, so avoid anything that is going to cause your dog stress, fear, reactivity, or high excitement. Having a member of the household say the dog's name and get his or her attention is probably best.
4. When the dog is mentally involved with the distraction (NOT looking at you!) - click! You will do this without any warning or cues. Just click as the dog is paying attention to something else. If you use a marker word, say the marker word distinctly. Don't shout it - say it as you would to mark a typical behavior.
5. If your dog turns his or her head toward you, even briefly or slightly, reward.
6. Test complete!

What now? Which describes your dog's response to the click or marker word?

A. Your dog immediately turned when you clicked or said the marker word - Excellent! This shows that your dog fully understands the marker and that a reward is about to be given to him or her. You might want to try it a few times just to make sure, but if the dog turns to you by default upon hearing click or marker word in the presence of a small distraction, you are all set.

B. Your dog hesitated, but did turn to you after you clicked or said the marker word - Good. This shows that your dog understands the marker. It would be beneficial for you to "load up" the clicker or marker word, just a bit more to make this a stronger automatic default response. You can do this by doing the initial clicker-loading exercise several times a day with high value treats and/or ask for very simple behaviors that your dog knows well and click/treat (with high value rewards) for every correct response.

After doing this for three or four days, repeat the test to see if the dog responds with a more automatic turn to you for the reward. When you test this again, be sure to keep the distraction very low level.

C. Your dog did not seem to recognize the click or marker word and> remained focused on the distraction - You have some work to do! Your dog did not ignore you or blow you off - the strength of the marker is weak and you need to do some legwork to build your dog's automatic response to it. Do the initial clicker-loading exercise several times a day with high value treats. After doing this for at least two days, and/or ask for very simple behaviors that your dog knows well and click/treat (with high value rewards) for every correct response. After doing this for three or four days, repeat the test to see if there has been progress. When you test this again, be sure to keep the distraction very low level.

If you are using a marker word and your dog's response is weak or non-existent, you might want to consider loading up a clicker and using that for your Control Unleashed work. Even if you never want to use a clicker for anything else, I recommend that you consider this for CU.

You don't need a ton of clicker skills to use the clicker in CU work. Your dog needs to know that the click means that a reward is going to be given, and you need to be able to click the clicker at specific points in time. That's pretty much it.

Resource:

Kristine in Pennsylvania

CU Book Study Moderator

My Dean Dog Blog: http://www.xanga.com/DeantheBorderCollie http://www.xanga.com/DeantheBorderCollie