Take a look a recent article about research that suggests dogs are becoming stupid due to breeding for looks rather than the working qualities of the breed.
"Dogs Are Getting Dumber Says New Research" by Karen Curley
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Raw Feeding My Dog
by Karen Curley
My 14 month old collie has always been a very finicky eater. He will go three or four days without eating anything and when he finally does decide to eat, he will only pick at his kibble. I would say he averages a half cup of kibble a day. Not only that, but he would vomit bile every day because his stomach was empty but still, he wouldn’t eat any more.
I have changed his food twice, introducing new kibble gradually but to no avail. You would imagine that a $40 bag of dog food would be delicious, but I guess not!
My pup is very bony and thin, although he is full of energy, so everyone says that I shouldn’t be concerned. Even the vet said that he was fine but will probably always be small for his breed. I figure a dog should enjoy his food, not just pick at it to sustain himself, so I decided to switch to a Raw Diet.
I read a lot about the raw diet before I decided to give it a try. It makes perfect sense to feed a dog raw meat. After all, they are carnivores. From what I read, kibble is not healthy for a dog. It contains a large amount of grains and vegetables, both of which a dog (or cat for that matter) cannot digest. Kibble is also the cause of many allergies and medical problems in dogs or cats.
So, I took the plunge a month ago, feeding Brodie raw chicken quarters, oxtails, beef gullet, pork necks, chicken hearts and gizzards, green tripe and raw liver. Today, for breakfast, he ate a whole Cornish hen. These are just of the few raw meats I have tried. I must say, at first, I was a little worried about the chicken bones but they were no problem for him.
My dog loves mealtime now. He thoroughly enjoys his raw meats, crunching the bones and tearing the meat. Isn’t that what a carnivore is all about? He hasn’t vomited since he started the Raw Diet and his coat seems brighter and shinier. I feel guilty now because I let him go on for a year not enjoying his mealtime.
I joined the yahoo group: rawfeeding@yahoogroups.com which is full of tips and ideas for raw feeding your pet. Everyone on the group is very helpful and supportive, answering all the newbie questions I have had.
As I was researching the Raw Diet for dogs, I found that there are two groups of thought. One is the BARF Diet group and the other is strictly Raw Meat Diet:
The BARF Diet consists mainly of raw meaty bones, organs, and pulped vegetables like: carrots, kale, zucchini, romaine, and celery, to name a few. The BARF Diet also adds yogurt for the probiotics and supplements. There are quite a few sites online that have BARF recipes if you are interested in starting raw with your dog or cat. I tried the BARF diet with my dog the first two weeks but he really didn’t like the vegetables at all, so I went with all raw meat and organs.
The Raw Diet is just what it says, all raw meat, meaty bones, organs, and raw eggs with the shells for added calcium. This is the diet my collie loves. Here is a great site that lists all kinds of raw meats you can feed your pet: www.rawfeddogs.net
How much raw meat to feed your dog or cat depends on body weight? The rule of thumb is to feed 2-4 percent of the body weight of the dog. I’ve been feeding about 3 percent to my collie because he needs to put on a little weight which equals roughly 1 ½ lbs. of meat per day. If he starts to gain too much, I’ll cut him back to 2 percent. Here is a handy site for calculating how much meat to feed your dog: http://www.raw4dogs.com/calculate.htm
Another issue to consider when switching to the Raw Meat Diet is the dog treats. I used to buy dog biscuits and various other treats at the pet supply store. Treats are not cheap these days either. Now, I dehydrate fresh beef liver or green tripe, and then break it up into bite sized pieces. These are the only training treats I use for my dog. He absolutely loves them! They are also cheaper than the store bought treats. He will work hard just for a small nibble of these.
Here is a list of a few more raw feeding sites, if you’re thinking about giving it a try. I know my dog loves his food now and his teeth are glowing ( an added plus to feeding raw meaty bones is clean teeth – no more struggling with that doggie tooth brush.)
http://www.rawlearning.com/ http://www.rawmeatybones.com/
Some companies offer prepackaged raw food for dogs, cats, ferrets, and even horses. This is handy if you are traveling or didn't get to the meat store. Keep it frozen as a handy meal in case you run out of meat or you can bring it to the kennel if you need to leave your dog.
My 14 month old collie has always been a very finicky eater. He will go three or four days without eating anything and when he finally does decide to eat, he will only pick at his kibble. I would say he averages a half cup of kibble a day. Not only that, but he would vomit bile every day because his stomach was empty but still, he wouldn’t eat any more.
I have changed his food twice, introducing new kibble gradually but to no avail. You would imagine that a $40 bag of dog food would be delicious, but I guess not!
My pup is very bony and thin, although he is full of energy, so everyone says that I shouldn’t be concerned. Even the vet said that he was fine but will probably always be small for his breed. I figure a dog should enjoy his food, not just pick at it to sustain himself, so I decided to switch to a Raw Diet.
I read a lot about the raw diet before I decided to give it a try. It makes perfect sense to feed a dog raw meat. After all, they are carnivores. From what I read, kibble is not healthy for a dog. It contains a large amount of grains and vegetables, both of which a dog (or cat for that matter) cannot digest. Kibble is also the cause of many allergies and medical problems in dogs or cats.
So, I took the plunge a month ago, feeding Brodie raw chicken quarters, oxtails, beef gullet, pork necks, chicken hearts and gizzards, green tripe and raw liver. Today, for breakfast, he ate a whole Cornish hen. These are just of the few raw meats I have tried. I must say, at first, I was a little worried about the chicken bones but they were no problem for him.
My dog loves mealtime now. He thoroughly enjoys his raw meats, crunching the bones and tearing the meat. Isn’t that what a carnivore is all about? He hasn’t vomited since he started the Raw Diet and his coat seems brighter and shinier. I feel guilty now because I let him go on for a year not enjoying his mealtime.
I joined the yahoo group: rawfeeding@yahoogroups.com which is full of tips and ideas for raw feeding your pet. Everyone on the group is very helpful and supportive, answering all the newbie questions I have had.
As I was researching the Raw Diet for dogs, I found that there are two groups of thought. One is the BARF Diet group and the other is strictly Raw Meat Diet:
The BARF Diet consists mainly of raw meaty bones, organs, and pulped vegetables like: carrots, kale, zucchini, romaine, and celery, to name a few. The BARF Diet also adds yogurt for the probiotics and supplements. There are quite a few sites online that have BARF recipes if you are interested in starting raw with your dog or cat. I tried the BARF diet with my dog the first two weeks but he really didn’t like the vegetables at all, so I went with all raw meat and organs.
The Raw Diet is just what it says, all raw meat, meaty bones, organs, and raw eggs with the shells for added calcium. This is the diet my collie loves. Here is a great site that lists all kinds of raw meats you can feed your pet: www.rawfeddogs.net
How much raw meat to feed your dog or cat depends on body weight? The rule of thumb is to feed 2-4 percent of the body weight of the dog. I’ve been feeding about 3 percent to my collie because he needs to put on a little weight which equals roughly 1 ½ lbs. of meat per day. If he starts to gain too much, I’ll cut him back to 2 percent. Here is a handy site for calculating how much meat to feed your dog: http://www.raw4dogs.com/calculate.htm
Another issue to consider when switching to the Raw Meat Diet is the dog treats. I used to buy dog biscuits and various other treats at the pet supply store. Treats are not cheap these days either. Now, I dehydrate fresh beef liver or green tripe, and then break it up into bite sized pieces. These are the only training treats I use for my dog. He absolutely loves them! They are also cheaper than the store bought treats. He will work hard just for a small nibble of these.
Here is a list of a few more raw feeding sites, if you’re thinking about giving it a try. I know my dog loves his food now and his teeth are glowing ( an added plus to feeding raw meaty bones is clean teeth – no more struggling with that doggie tooth brush.)
http://www.rawlearning.com/ http://www.rawmeatybones.com/
Some companies offer prepackaged raw food for dogs, cats, ferrets, and even horses. This is handy if you are traveling or didn't get to the meat store. Keep it frozen as a handy meal in case you run out of meat or you can bring it to the kennel if you need to leave your dog.
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Free Knitted Dog Sweater Pattern
Keep your dog warm this winter with this knitted dog sweater. The dog sweater instructions are for sizes small to large. I knitted the small sweater and it fits my friend's miniature schnauzer. I would say that the small size will fit any dog in the small dog group. The large size would probably fit a medium sized dog like a beagle, a dachshund, or a cocker spaniel. I originally got this pattern from Michael's Craft's store but changed it a bit when I knitted it.
I didn't have any trouble with the dog sweater pattern and I'm somewhere between beginner and experienced as a knitter. The knitted sweater pattern has basic knitting including knit, purl, increase, decrease, and slip stitch. There are no complicated cable stitches or popcorn stitches but the neck is knitted with a circular needle.
I had never used a circular needle before and I had no trouble with it for this pattern. The picture shown here is the dog sweater that I knitted. It's being shown on a stuffed animal because I don't have a small dog but it gives you the idea of what the sweater looks like.
Knitted Dog Sweater Pattern
Yarn required: 6.5 oz. sports weight yarn. You can break this up into two different colors if you want a contrasting neck and sleeves.
Needles: Size 8 (5mm), Size 8 (5mm) circular needle/16"
Stitch Holder
Size: S (L) Chest size: 13 ¼" (25") Length: 9 ¼" (21 3/4")
Gauge: 18 sts. and 36 rows equals 4" in garter stitch
(The garter stitch is knitting every row.)
Abbreviations: dec-decrease, inc-increase, k-knit, p-purl, k2tog-knit 2 together, rnd-round, RS-right side
Ssk-slip,slip,knit (slip next 2 sts as if to knit, one at a time, to right needle into fronts of these 2 sts and k them together.
M1 – make 1 stitch. (An increase worked by lifting the horizontal thread lying between the needles and placing it onto the left needle. Work this new stitch through the back loop.)
Back: Cast on 35 (51) sts. with the straight needles. Knit in the garter stitch, increasing 1 stitch at both ends of the row, every 6th (4th) row, 3 (14) times. There are now 41 (79) stitches on the needle. Continue knitting in the garter stitch for 5 ¾" (14 ¼").
Leg Openings: Place a marker at the end of the last row. This will mark the beginning of the leg openings. Decrease Row: K2, ssk, k to last 4 sts., k2 tog., k2. Repeat the decrease row every other row 3 more times – 33 (71) sts. Knit 10 rows. Increase Row: K2, M1, k to last 2 sts., M1, k2. Repeat the increase row every other row 3 more times – 41 (79) sts. Place a marker at each end of the last row to mark the end of the leg openings. Knit 4 rows. Work even in the garter stitch for 1 (5"). Place 41 (79) sts on a holder.
Front: Using straight needles, cast on 19 (33) sts. Knit in the garter stitch for 1 ¼ (6 ¼ "). Shape the leg openings as you did for the back. Place 19 (33)sts. on a holder.
Collar: Using the circular needle, knit across the Back stitches on the holder, then the Front stitches. – 60 (112)sts. Place a marker and join for working in the round. Size L only: *K2, k2tog, k3, k2tog; repeat from *, end with k4 – 88 sts. Both Sizes: Work even in rounds of K2, P2 until collar is 4 (7"). Bind off loosely following the ribbing pattern.
Sleeves: At each leg opening, with right side facing, pick up and knit – 28 sts. Knit in K2, P2 until the sleeve measures 2 ½ (3 ½") Bind off loosely following ribbing pattern.
Finishing: Sew the side seams on either side of the leg openings. Sew the sleeve seams and weave in the ends. Hope this knitted dog sweater keeps you pup warm all winter.
Happy Knitting!
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
How to Protect Your Pet During the Winter
Well, Halloween is over and the clocks have been set back. You know what comes next...WINTER! It's time to think about preparing your pet for the cold, winter months. If your dog or cat spends a lot of time outside, make sure they have an insulated shelter to get in out of the cold. Even then, they should be allowed inside off and on throughout the day. Evenings get especially cold, the temperature dropping by 20 degrees or more. Bring your pet inside on winter nights.
Even if you have a long-haired pet, like a collie, a sheltie, or a Maine Coon cat, the weather affects them in the same way it does humans. They can suffer from hypothermia just as you do. Some dogs like Alaskan Malamutes or Siberian Huskies are better suited to the cold. They have insulated coats that protects them from blowing snow and wind, but if you own one of these dogs and they are not used to the cold, they can still suffer in the freezing weather. Make sure you insulate the dog house, garage, or wherever your pet sleeps with blankets, pillows, or bedding filled with wood shavings. Pet stores also carry heated pads that can be placed under the dog house or bedding. If your pet is a chewer, this is not an option, however.
Water is another issue during the winter months. An insulated dog house will not keep water from freezing. You will have to bring your pet indoors frequently for water. Dog houses and garages are only recommended for daylight hours. I can't emphasize enough that pets should be brought inside at night.
When walking your dog in frigid weather, snow, and ice, use some type of booties to protect the dog's paws from ice chips, freezing walkways, and salted roads. Road salt will dry out the pads of your pet's paws, causing cracking, and bleeding. You can make pet booties yourself with a woolen or felt fabric or knit the dog booties yourself. It may seem strange at first, seeing your dog in booties, but the added protection will prevent frostbite, cuts, and infection.
Small dogs, cats, and short-haired pets should also wear jackets or sweaters. Water proof dog and cat jackets are best, but any covering is better than no protection. Knitted wool sweaters are very warm and are ideal protection from the wet and cold. Just don't put wool sweaters in the clothes dryer or they will shrink to a tiny size. Wool sweaters need to be air dried. There are many free knitted dog sweater and cat sweater patterns online, so if you know how to knit, this is a great way to build up your pet's winter outerwear. It's fun choosing all the different colored yarns and knitting your pet a cozy sweater. Create matching pet booties, as well.
Another thing to keep in mind during the cold weather, especially if your pet is staying in a garage, is anti-freeze. Anti-Freeze is extremely toxic to humans, pets, and other wildlife. Animals will drink anti-freeze, being attracted by its sweet taste. If your pet drinks a puddle of anti-freeze, go to the vet immediately. It will cause death. Double check your driveway and garage for anti-freeze that may have leaked out of your vehicle or a vehicle that was parked in your driveway. Protect your pet and any other wildlife like squirrels, raccoons, chipmunks, and birds that are looking for water in the winter.
Dry, cold, or heated air is also a problem for some pets, causing dry skin, itching, and hot spots. Add a little extra fat to your pet's food in the winter. You can do this by using a tablespoon or two of olive oil, fatty acid supplements you can buy at the pet store, or the extra fat cut off of meat. The added fat gives a nice shine to your pet's coat and prevents dandruff. Your pet will love the extra fatty oils too.
Even if you have a long-haired pet, like a collie, a sheltie, or a Maine Coon cat, the weather affects them in the same way it does humans. They can suffer from hypothermia just as you do. Some dogs like Alaskan Malamutes or Siberian Huskies are better suited to the cold. They have insulated coats that protects them from blowing snow and wind, but if you own one of these dogs and they are not used to the cold, they can still suffer in the freezing weather. Make sure you insulate the dog house, garage, or wherever your pet sleeps with blankets, pillows, or bedding filled with wood shavings. Pet stores also carry heated pads that can be placed under the dog house or bedding. If your pet is a chewer, this is not an option, however.
Water is another issue during the winter months. An insulated dog house will not keep water from freezing. You will have to bring your pet indoors frequently for water. Dog houses and garages are only recommended for daylight hours. I can't emphasize enough that pets should be brought inside at night.
When walking your dog in frigid weather, snow, and ice, use some type of booties to protect the dog's paws from ice chips, freezing walkways, and salted roads. Road salt will dry out the pads of your pet's paws, causing cracking, and bleeding. You can make pet booties yourself with a woolen or felt fabric or knit the dog booties yourself. It may seem strange at first, seeing your dog in booties, but the added protection will prevent frostbite, cuts, and infection.
Small dogs, cats, and short-haired pets should also wear jackets or sweaters. Water proof dog and cat jackets are best, but any covering is better than no protection. Knitted wool sweaters are very warm and are ideal protection from the wet and cold. Just don't put wool sweaters in the clothes dryer or they will shrink to a tiny size. Wool sweaters need to be air dried. There are many free knitted dog sweater and cat sweater patterns online, so if you know how to knit, this is a great way to build up your pet's winter outerwear. It's fun choosing all the different colored yarns and knitting your pet a cozy sweater. Create matching pet booties, as well.
Another thing to keep in mind during the cold weather, especially if your pet is staying in a garage, is anti-freeze. Anti-Freeze is extremely toxic to humans, pets, and other wildlife. Animals will drink anti-freeze, being attracted by its sweet taste. If your pet drinks a puddle of anti-freeze, go to the vet immediately. It will cause death. Double check your driveway and garage for anti-freeze that may have leaked out of your vehicle or a vehicle that was parked in your driveway. Protect your pet and any other wildlife like squirrels, raccoons, chipmunks, and birds that are looking for water in the winter.
Dry, cold, or heated air is also a problem for some pets, causing dry skin, itching, and hot spots. Add a little extra fat to your pet's food in the winter. You can do this by using a tablespoon or two of olive oil, fatty acid supplements you can buy at the pet store, or the extra fat cut off of meat. The added fat gives a nice shine to your pet's coat and prevents dandruff. Your pet will love the extra fatty oils too.
Hope these tips help both you and your pet stay cozy and warm all winter.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Find Out Your Dog's Breed with Dog DNA Testing
I was talking to the lady next to me at my dog’s obedience class and she mentioned that she was having her dog DNA tested. She couldn’t stand it anymore and wanted to know what mix her dog was. I had never heard of DNA testing for dogs before, so I was quite surprised it was available. (The picture on the right is a German Shepherd/Golden Retriever mix.
The woman told me she ordered a DNA kit online and that the results would cost about $60.00. When I think of DNA testing, I picture big laboratories with scientists in white lab coats, sitting at microscopes, beakers, and test tubes strewn about them. I didn’t realize that testing was that simple.
Everyone in the class was anxiously awaiting the test results. It only took about a week for the results to come back. It was amazing, really. The test gave the actual percentage of each dog breed that her dog’s DNA was made up of. She told me that her dog was tested according to 135 dogs that the AKC recognizes as purebreds.
She found out that her dog was part Australian shepherd, German shepherd, and golden retriever. Everyone in the obedience class was guessing what breeds the dog might be made up of, but no one got the right answer. The dog owner was very happy with the results and a few of the other people in the class are planning on having their dogs tested also.
So, if you’ve been wondering about what your mixed breed dog is made up of, or if you want to be sure that your dog is a purebred, you might want to consider DNA testing for your dog. DNA BreedID.com will do the test for $59.99. That is the least expensive place I found on the internet.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Get an Original Colored Pencil Portrait of Your Pet
Have you ever wanted an original portrait of your pet or your favorite wildlife animal?
Colored pencil portraits are an economical, yet gorgeous way to have a portrait of your favorite pet created. These portraits are painted using professional Prismacolor colored pencils on artist vellum. They are also sprayed with a preservative to keep the colors bright and long lasting.
The example of the Great Dane puppy is one of my favorite colored pencil portraits. I painted it (colored pencil artwork is actually considered painting) from a reference photo of a Great Dane puppy. It is an 8"x10" size for easy framing.
A colored pencil portrait can be painted using any high quality photo of your pet. Try to choose a photograph that shows your pet's personality and expression. A pet's portrait makes a great gift and a lasting memory of your pet.
If you would like more information on colored pencil pet portraits, just send me an KCurleyArt@gmail and I'd be happy to give you more details.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Keep Your Pets Safe in the Summer Months
Dehydration in Pets
Now that the weather is getting warmer, it is time to consider your pet's comfort and safety.
The summer months are approaching and it doesn't matter how many warnings are given. You will see pets tortured inside sweltering cars in parking lots. It never fails. It is so disturbing to see a panting dog, heaving and slobbering against a car window on an 80 degree day. The inside of a car will reach 120 degrees within a few minutes. When that happens, your pet will not have much of a chance. Even cracking a window will not help in this kind of weather.
Don't let your pet suffer. Protect him from dehydration and heat exhaustion. Like people, pets need a cool, shady spot to hunker down and wait out the daytime heat. Provide plenty of fresh water. The only way a dog can cool down its body is by drinking water. They do not sweat like people do.
Overweight or older pets are especially affected by the heat.
Treating Dehydration in Pets
If your pet becomes severely dehydrated and cannot drink, try giving it fluids by using a squirt bottle and squeezing the fluid into the cheek pouch. You can use something like Pedialyte to replace the electrolytes. You can also try soaking his body to lower his temperature. Use a rectal thermometer to take your pet's temperature. It should read from 100 - 102. Anything higher than this is extremely dangerous. If these methods do not work, bring your pet to the vet immediately. Fluids will have to be replaced intravenously.
Another thing to keep in mind is that your pet does not wear running shoes. If you decide to go for a run on a hot day, it is better to leave your pet at home. Paws can get burned on the hot pavement, and body fluids depleted quickly. Keep your pet's walks short. If you have to take your pet along, make sure to bring bottled water for your pet to drink from frequently. Exercise is not always a good idea on a hot day.
Your dog trusts you to take care of him. He will do anything you ask him to. He will run, play Frisbee, sit in a hot car or lay on a boiling beach just to be by your side. Be the sensible one, and keep your pet safe. Enjoy each other's company lounging around at home together. Stay cool with an iced tea for you and a Frosty Paws for your pet.
Now that the weather is getting warmer, it is time to consider your pet's comfort and safety.
The summer months are approaching and it doesn't matter how many warnings are given. You will see pets tortured inside sweltering cars in parking lots. It never fails. It is so disturbing to see a panting dog, heaving and slobbering against a car window on an 80 degree day. The inside of a car will reach 120 degrees within a few minutes. When that happens, your pet will not have much of a chance. Even cracking a window will not help in this kind of weather.
Don't let your pet suffer. Protect him from dehydration and heat exhaustion. Like people, pets need a cool, shady spot to hunker down and wait out the daytime heat. Provide plenty of fresh water. The only way a dog can cool down its body is by drinking water. They do not sweat like people do.
Overweight or older pets are especially affected by the heat.
Treating Dehydration in Pets
If your pet becomes severely dehydrated and cannot drink, try giving it fluids by using a squirt bottle and squeezing the fluid into the cheek pouch. You can use something like Pedialyte to replace the electrolytes. You can also try soaking his body to lower his temperature. Use a rectal thermometer to take your pet's temperature. It should read from 100 - 102. Anything higher than this is extremely dangerous. If these methods do not work, bring your pet to the vet immediately. Fluids will have to be replaced intravenously.
Another thing to keep in mind is that your pet does not wear running shoes. If you decide to go for a run on a hot day, it is better to leave your pet at home. Paws can get burned on the hot pavement, and body fluids depleted quickly. Keep your pet's walks short. If you have to take your pet along, make sure to bring bottled water for your pet to drink from frequently. Exercise is not always a good idea on a hot day.
Your dog trusts you to take care of him. He will do anything you ask him to. He will run, play Frisbee, sit in a hot car or lay on a boiling beach just to be by your side. Be the sensible one, and keep your pet safe. Enjoy each other's company lounging around at home together. Stay cool with an iced tea for you and a Frosty Paws for your pet.
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